Garage Takai

Got a few hours to get back into this again, knocked up a second baffled muffler:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/02/15/20190215224213-538e125f-xl.jpg[/img]

Its just a baffled SS magnaflow same as the straight through design, but hopefully will make it easier to drive longer distances, or think. Its just a single bolt on the V-band to swap them over, so easily done at the track or whenever i want to.

I also remembered to fit up the rear swaybar, which thankfully fit between the exhaust and the subframe, although its a little tight to manoeuvre in. Its a Whiteline 16mm adjustable unit that i swapped for a stock front sway. Put it in with another set of Supermiata links:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/02/15/20190215223754-0a1be51e-xl.jpg[/img]

However, the Supermiata links at the rear leave a little to be desired. Firstly, to space them back enough i had to run all the spacers, which means that there is bugger all bolt engagement:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/02/15/20190215223741-8447389f-xl.jpg[/img]

Secondly, at full droop the deflection angle is pretty extreme, so I cant remove any spacers:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/02/15/20190215223734-7cd5a874-xl.jpg[/img]

Not quite sure what to do with that just yet, other than just buy a pair of new longer bolts for the upper link.

Hopefully my decidedly not overnight parts from the US will arrive soon and i can finish off the brake master upgrade and get the car going again.

Did a few things over the long weekend. Managed to get the exhaust all finished and welded up, and managed to make it not hit anything or be close enough to hit stuff:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/28/20190128003954-2516270d-xl.jpg[/img]

That includes the big subframe brace which clears the exhaust nicely. Also welded in the front mounting points, which was a pain in the butt due to angles of lying under the car and the massive contamination in the steel over the years. Nevertheless its done and all back in place.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/28/20190128003946-7d6a0d80-xl.jpg[/img]

Apart from the boring stuff of putting axles back in etc, i also put a little magnifying glass into my quarter window:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/28/20190128000512-453fd165-xl.jpg[/img]

Its a window vent kit from Beavis, and fits quite well in there. Apparently though the convex nature of the vent can act as a magnifying glass and lead to a burning trans tunnel. Time to find some frosted vinyl to cover over the vent.

While i was there i found another little oddity with this car. What is missing from the second picture here?

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/28/20190128000504-5ecc1c58-xl.jpg[/img]

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/28/20190128000530-8bf85460-xl.jpg[/img]

Got under the car this afternoon and started building up the exhaust. Had forgotten how slow it is to build an exhaust with mandrel bends and no hoist, and using the TIG for everything. About half way there now:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/21/20190121002134-50387174-xl.jpg[/img]

Just need to refit the passenger axle to make sure it clears and then its a fairly simple exercise to get to the boot.

Also discovered how badly the chromed/polished chinese stainless welds too:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/21/20190121002050-4276bc4a-xl.jpg[/img]

Its all good TIG practice though, and the rest of the cheap chinese bends seem to weld just fine.

Also got to give my new tungsten sharpener a go, and it works a treat. Good sharp grinds every time, and relatively fast.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/21/20190121002155-dced6997-xl.jpg[/img]

Waiting on a CV banding tool and more bands to reseal the outer CVs on the axles and then they can go in before i jig the rest of the exhaust around them.

Going to find out tomorrow if i can get these 1/8 NPT to M10x1 Inverted Flare adapters too, if not thats another bit to come from the US.

Fabbed up a bit more of the exhaust today, and got stuck finding stuff to hold the muffler in place. Eventually made do with this:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/22/20190122234615-5b16d58e-xl.jpg[/img]

Pity that the 10mm stainless rod i was sold is actually 12mm though 🙁

Had a chance to pull out the brake booster and master to upgrade it and put in the proportioning valve.

Firstly, i found a good use for this set of crows foot flare nut spanners i picked up ages ago:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/18/20190118025211-12a1ac63-xl.jpg[/img]

In combination with the impact ratchet they make short work of getting brake lines off in awkward spots:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/18/20190118025147-79a489d6-xl.jpg[/img]

Secondly, at some point this master has been replaced, and whoever did it seems to have continued their obsession with Loctite:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/upload/2019/01/18/20190118022559-8a7d64ad.jpg[/img]

Little wonder that the flare nuts were almost impossible to get off with normal flare nut spanners.

On a third and more annoying note though, what in hell is Mazda doing:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/18/20190118022523-036c1934-xl.jpg[/img]

One inverted flare seat, one bubble flare seat… on the same master cylinder. Arrrgh.

Fourth, and most annoying, I have discovered that the proportioning valve was supplied with 1/8NPT to 3/8 inverted flare fittings, not with 1/8NPT to M10x1 inverted flare fittings. So ill have to try and source some 1/8NPT to M10x1 IF adapters from somewhere… only they seem quite hard to come by locally.

This leaves me with a dilemma. M10x1 IF to Bubble are relatively easy to get, and so i could get a new prop valve with M10x1 bubble flare fittings quite easily and then use adapters on that to M10x1 IF.

Another option is to get this: [url]https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-4444-30-260-11179-Proportioning/dp/B003LT619Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1547807772&sr=8-2&keywords=260-8419[/url] which does both front and rear circuits in the one unit, but would need adapting from 3/8 IF to M10x1 IF. I cant find any listing for such an adapter though.

The last option is to get some of the M10x1 IF to 1/8 NPT adapters from the US along with a M10x1 IF to bubble adapter for the master cylinder.

All in all though its likely to have to come from the US, because it just seems to be not available here.

Anyone have suggestions?

Had a few moments in the garage tonight and came across the race seat rails while looking for something else, so i got distracted and test fitted the bucket seat:

Fits pretty well:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/14/20190114023428-df73c84a-xl.jpg[/img]

Fairly common on these things is that the wings hit the doors. I won that lottery… just:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/_data/i/upload/2019/01/14/20190114023453-9786e98c-xl.jpg[/img]

Its not going to be easy to fit though, will require having the rear bolts out or captive in order to drop the seat rails in place and then pivot the seat back on the front bolts to be fastened up at the back. Might require significant dexterity…. 🙁

Got back under the car this afternoon to put a controversial piece of weight on the car, the frame rails. The process is pretty easy, test put frame rail on, then bash chassis rail enough to get it to fit up:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235353-7cdcc7fb-xl.jpg[/img]

I attached it with Tek screws at the front and rear temporarily, before drilling a lot of holes for bolts. Add bolts and replace tek screws:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235313-204c57d1-xl.jpg[/img]

Eventually you end up with this:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235252-022ff28a-xl.jpg[/img]

Drivers side was a bit harder because of the fuel lines in the way on one side, required a chunk of wood to push them away from the holes temporarily. The kit also came with a pair of nice stainless fuel line brackets, which was good as one of them was pretty busted up from the existing chassis rail hit.
These turned out to be invaluable while doing that work, makes for good directed light with the eyepro. Far better than the Peltor ones i had a while back.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235057-aedeba47-xl.jpg[/img]

What was noticeable was that the hit to the chassis rail shifted the floorpan up a good 10mm or so, which is a testament to how flimsy the existing chassis rails are.

No idea if it will help with the rigidity, but im sure it will help with ripple strips and running out of talent.

While i was under there i test fit the OEM NB ladder bar reinforcement, just to see what sort of room im looking at needing for exhaust.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235144-1d002f23-xl.jpg[/img]

Noticed that the NA doesnt have the floorpan captive nuts available for the NB ladder bar, so not sure what to do about that yet.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235208-afe0bc46-xl.jpg[/img]

Looks like its into a double skinned portion of the chassis too:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235233-2c261228-xl.jpg[/img]

Might have to make up some little captive nuts on plates and weld them in.

Also found that this little waxed canvas bag I picked up from the US fits all my in car tools perfectly:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/12/20190112235124-9f549fbe-xl.jpg[/img]

Trying to figure out what to do next. Perhaps tidy up the brake stuff and put the axles in. Not quite looking forward to doing the exhaust right now.

So after procrastinating for ages with putting in the rear subframes, i finally pulled my finger out in the new garage. Was all fitted and in place in 2hours including clean up, despite taking ages to release the PPF upper pin thing (that was an absolute pain).

Out came the old setup: diff, axles etc all in one unit.

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/06/20190106004916-0a8a6f24-xl.jpg[/img]

Then proceeded to roll the new subframe and diff in on the dolly, and jacked up the entire dolly under the car:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/06/20190106004906-85465437-xl.jpg[/img]

Voila, one NB8B subframe and diff back in the car:

[img]http://images.plebeians.net/i.php?/upload/2019/01/06/20190106004911-d8a01f40-xl.jpg[/img]

Was going to fit the axles today, but it was dinner time with all the rugrats running around (a mate came around for a kids and dads play day; we did the subframe, the kids played upstairs).

Now i just need to sort out some anti-seize grease for the stub axles (is copper grease still the hotness), and fit that up.

While its all up in the air ill do some other bits that need to be done under there.
[LIST=1]
[]Frame rail reinforcement []New exhaust
[]Tidy up brake discs []Install new brake master and booster
[*]Swap clutch master and slave
[/LIST]

[I]Probably another 6 months before it gets back on the road[/I] :knock: