I built my cube today as well, after having to modify the bolts to hold it together because the OpenBuilds cubes were machined fairly poorly.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/38006-2/20160422-163309-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]
Still its together and as square as reasonably possible:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/38001-2/20160422-163219-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]
In lieu of the next video here is a parts glory shot. Stupid GoPro decided to blink as if it was recording but record about 15s and then stop.
See if you can spot the missing parts…
Also in the box of bits from the US was my MIC6 build plate that i got from a US supplier because chasing suppliers here in Aus was a pain in the butt: “oh you want 6061 plate”…
Anyway tonight i had an hour or so free after coming home from a meeting and decided to see if a plan that i have had in the back of my head would come to fruition.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/37991-2/20160421-232002-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]
The recommended heater for the VORON is a stick on silicone rubber heater mat in AC voltages, which is then fed through an AC SSR to be controlled by the RAMPS. Now i dont mind AC stuff, but mixing AC and DC on a 3d printer just annoyed me slightly. Plus the silicone heater mats dont tend to work particularly well unless you spend a motza on them. I had this MK3 heated bed lying around as it had a damaged ear from shipping and so couldnt be leveled properly on my Prusa.
So i decided i would try using a standard MK3 heated bed as the heater for the VORON. Thats the standard 230mm MIC6 bed underneath with four tapped M3 holes in it to mount the bed to. Also planning on using either a sheet of 3M mounting tape (same as the PEI stuff) to add adhesion, or a thin smear of silver thermal adhesive to remove some of the stress from the bolts and also to increase thermal conduction.
There is a bolt missing from the damaged corner of the bed, but I’m planning on cutting the broken piece of metal out and attaching the bed to that corner as well using a wider custom washer.
Will see how it goes. But hoping it will be a viable alternative. Also if the threads fail in the aluminium plate i was thinking of drilling through and using neatly countersunk M3 taper head bolts under the PEI to bolt the heated bed on. Its also touch and go for the spring mounts, but should be able to squeeze them in. For a bigger bed size it would be a cake walk.
For a little while now i have been gearing up to replace my Prusa i3 with another printer that will be stored indoors. One of the big factors is WAF along with the safety for little hands being near it.
After deciding on a CoreXY build i couldnt settle on the specific design, until a few weeks ago when russiancatfood/mzbot released the VORON to the public. I quickly settled on that for a variety of reasons, not least of which is the ease of enclosure and general minimalistic beauty of the build. This weekend im planning on building it from go to whoa, and here is the thread for documenting it.
In the past I have put up extensive build threads on various forums, usually for race cars (such as the one you can see in the corner of the frame here). But for the VORON I thought i would do something different given that its not so much an engineering and design challenge, but just a build thread.
Thats the first part of the build done. Just waiting on a parcel with the corner cubes and i can put the frame together. The other stages will be2. Mechanical3. Electrical4. Finishing touches
Planning on a couple of little mods to the design, but they will come later. Also sorely missing my lathe and mill at this point. In the past i would have fed that 20mm T-slot in through the headstock and into a 4 jaw chuck, and simply parted it off on the lathe using a cutting disc mount. Sadly all that equipment is 800km away in a storage shed 🙁
For about two decades now I have been tinkering on random things in various ‘garage’ spaces to keep myself sane. Starting out with computers and case modding, and then moving to cars, bikes, microcontrollers, and now 3D printers, it has been a rather long journey.
Lots of this journey has been documented on various forums over the years, but with the forum platform now going the way of the dodo I thought it was high time to migrate a bunch of build threads and other garage threads over to a blog.
Occasionally in these builds there will references to other threads or to people from the forums, and it may not make entire sense. But that is a price I’m willing to pay for not having to rewrite everything from scratch.
Here goes then, an attempt to collate all the random garage stuff I have done in the past 20 years.
Should be good enough to use for now, and i might see if i can source another head for some 1mm OS valves and heavier springs later on.
Need to lap them back into the head, but all my lapping compound has gone hard. So that will have to wait until i can get some more.
Had some sunny-ish weather, so i got out the pressure washer and gave the head and intake a good clean. Played tunes on the intake manifold in honour of MCM:
Started lapping the valves back into the head, decent finish for now, even if it not so shiny as the original:
Debating whether i delete it entirely. Looks like it only has one exposed end where the cam comes through, and i should just be able to remove the butterflies and pull the rod out. Then i can tap a thread in the casting and seal it up that way. Will decide another time i guess.
This seems to be the newer design of rack, with the rectangular tang end, rather than the splined setup. I have some silicon bronze filler on order and toying with just silicon bronzing it up. But if not ill just put in some side stitches in the concave reliefs with ER70S6 and add some silver solder to braze the rest together.
Then as i was pulling the car back into the garage i found out another issue with the idiotic fail of an overflow bottle:
Another month on, rolled the guards, got a wheel alignment for the rear, and started the logbooking process. Currently waiting for CAMS to get back to me on my cage certification so i can put that on the logbook application.
On the way home today i ducked past the waste transfer station to get a weight. Currently 1010kg with 3/4 tank of fuel, toolkit and spare tyre in the boot. 975kg without the stuff in the boot. Not bad given that it still has all the carpet and stuff in it, only ditched AC and door trims, plus added the frame rails and rear subframe reinforcements along with the NB diff.
Overall the NB diff and subframe make it feel a lot more planted in the rear, and it hooks up nicely now. The upgraded brake master makes the brakes feel very on point, and almost slightly touchy, but not to the point of locking up. Need to tweak front/rear bias though as it feels a little forward biased currently.
Next up is to start mocking up the IC for the turbo install so I can put in the oil cooler and thermostat ahead of time. Starting to get new quotes for the engine machine work, given the continued delays with the current shop.
Well getting the master in took embarrassingly longer than anticipated. I blame being sick. Realistically its also that i didnt give myself enough clearance around the T piece for spanner swing, and so i had to disassemble it in bay and then reassemble it within the bay
But its in now, and onto the final few things for this round. Im down a few harness eyelets, so i need to order/find those. Then its just a matter of tidying everything up and a final spanner check and some fresh fluids and its good to go.
Spurred on by Guido buying his, I finally found some time to polish the last 5% of it off. Fitted up the seat properly now, which required switching to hex head bolts for access. Getting the seat in and out is a bit of a pain, basically needing to remove the rear two seat bolts, pivot the seat forward to remove the two rear mount/chassis bolts, then remove the front bolts and out. But its doable.
Can I say too how much of a pain this style of harness strap is:
Took ages to adjust up the crotch strap and get it in the right spot.
Decided to do a gear fluids change, and found that whoever last changed the gearbag oil somehow managed to shove almost 3L into it, the 5sp takes around 1.9L… Oh well.
Gave it a bolt check and got it back down and out for a drive. Initial impressions are that the torsen hooks in nicely, as a torsen should, and the rear end feels a little more settled with the new swaybar.
Holy hell though, the exhaust is obnoxious. 2.5″ on an NA 1.6L is just bloody loud. Not overly droney, although it has a decent rasp up high, and not as loud as the AE86. But loud enough. Thats with the baffled muffler too, so i would hate to think what it would be like with the straight through.
This doesnt quite capture it, as the auto levels on the phone compensate too well, but gives an idea:
[youtube]DuvPaYXLXTU[/youtube]
Rear wheel arches need more of a roll too, the extra track width at the rear really shows:
I had a few quiet moments to tidy some stuff up in the garage in the last few days, and my bias valve finally arrived with some other fittings, so i got to get some stuff done.
Firstly, I finally fitted the water overflow bling:
Just squeezes in there, and replaced the bodgy brass fitting on top with a cheap AN one.
On the bottom i welded in an NPT bung and then squeezed in a 90deg 1/8NPT to -4AN fitting to clear the headlight motor bracket. Filled it up and hopefully it wont leak this time.
Needs the weird banjo to flare adapter for the front port because of the bubble flare fitting, but that is how they came from factory, so it looks pretty standard. Now i just have to contort myself under the dash again to button it up… another time.
