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VORON Raspberry Pi Case

Had a couple of hiccups with the 24v PSU burning out the crappy SSR, so that needs to be replaced. Printer is working well though, but can only print PLA as the heated bed cant get hot enough without the SSR failing at higher amperages.

In lieu though i decided i needed to learn Fusion 360 rather than using old AutoCad 2d and Blender stuff. So i knocked up a Raspberry Pi case for the printer. Here is the timelapse of the build:

Now i just need to wait for some bits to build a custom FET driver for the heated bed, rather than having to use another black box SSR that may fail. See this thread for more details on that: [URL]http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1195177[/URL]

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VORON Update

Didnt have much time over the weekend, but got it mostly running:https://www.instagram.com/p/BE3gCwpEp7v/
My Geetech fan extender seems to be not playing nicely and has a short on the board, so i have lost the servo pins on my RAMPS. So the fans are manually controlled for now. Im using the 18mm bodied sensor as I dont have the 12mm yet, and it requires some funky config as the extra depth pushes it off the build plate when sensing.
Oh and i accidentally swapped the Ext0 and Ext1 heaters, so its a bit squiffy there, but not terribly hard to fix. 
Now i just need to wait for a new RAMPS board so i can get the servo/fans running again, and I have to tidy up the RAMPS box, as its a bit messy in there.
Oh and i have somehow lost a mounting bracket for a NEMA17, so i cant mount up the second extruder yet. 🙁

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VORON Part 3: Wiring

Did most of the electrical today, and brewed my traditional ANZAC day beer in between.
All pretty much ready to go, except that the Arduino blew up, so time to get a new one.
What i forgot to mention in the video is that the RAMPS box im using has a hole cut out of the top to allow for the extruder carriage wiring to drop in the top there, makes for a cleaner wiring path IMHO.
Now to wait for the bits from eBay which will hopefully all be waiting when i get home.

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VORON Frame

I built my cube today as well, after having to modify the bolts to hold it together because the OpenBuilds cubes were machined fairly poorly.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/38006-2/20160422-163309-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]

Still its together and as square as reasonably possible:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/38001-2/20160422-163219-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]

In lieu of the next video here is a parts glory shot. Stupid GoPro decided to blink as if it was recording but record about 15s and then stop.
See if you can spot the missing parts…

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/38011-2/P1010005.JPG[/IMG]

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VORON MIC6 Bed Plate

Also in the box of bits from the US was my MIC6 build plate that i got from a US supplier because chasing suppliers here in Aus was a pain in the butt: “oh you want 6061 plate”…

Anyway tonight i had an hour or so free after coming home from a meeting and decided to see if a plan that i have had in the back of my head would come to fruition.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/37991-2/20160421-232002-iPhone.JPG[/IMG]

The recommended heater for the VORON is a stick on silicone rubber heater mat in AC voltages, which is then fed through an AC SSR to be controlled by the RAMPS. Now i dont mind AC stuff, but mixing AC and DC on a 3d printer just annoyed me slightly. Plus the silicone heater mats dont tend to work particularly well unless you spend a motza on them. I had this MK3 heated bed lying around as it had a damaged ear from shipping and so couldnt be leveled properly on my Prusa.

So i decided i would try using a standard MK3 heated bed as the heater for the VORON. Thats the standard 230mm MIC6 bed underneath with four tapped M3 holes in it to mount the bed to. Also planning on using either a sheet of 3M mounting tape (same as the PEI stuff) to add adhesion, or a thin smear of silver thermal adhesive to remove some of the stress from the bolts and also to increase thermal conduction.

There is a bolt missing from the damaged corner of the bed, but I’m planning on cutting the broken piece of metal out and attaching the bed to that corner as well using a wider custom washer.

Will see how it goes. But hoping it will be a viable alternative. Also if the threads fail in the aluminium plate i was thinking of drilling through and using neatly countersunk M3 taper head bolts under the PEI to bolt the heated bed on. Its also touch and go for the spring mounts, but should be able to squeeze them in. For a bigger bed size it would be a cake walk.

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VORON 3D Printer Part 1

For a little while now i have been gearing up to replace my Prusa i3 with another printer that will be stored indoors. One of the big factors is WAF along with the safety for little hands being near it.

After deciding on a CoreXY build i couldnt settle on the specific design, until a few weeks ago when russiancatfood/mzbot released the VORON to the public. I quickly settled on that for a variety of reasons, not least of which is the ease of enclosure and general minimalistic beauty of the build. This weekend im planning on building it from go to whoa, and here is the thread for documenting it.

In the past I have put up extensive build threads on various forums, usually for race cars (such as the one you can see in the corner of the frame here). But for the VORON I thought i would do something different given that its not so much an engineering and design challenge, but just a build thread.


Thats the first part of the build done. Just waiting on a parcel with the corner cubes and i can put the frame together. The other stages will be2. Mechanical3. Electrical4. Finishing touches

Planning on a couple of little mods to the design, but they will come later.
Also sorely missing my lathe and mill at this point. In the past i would have fed that 20mm T-slot in through the headstock and into a 4 jaw chuck, and simply parted it off on the lathe using a cutting disc mount. Sadly all that equipment is 800km away in a storage shed 🙁

More on the VORON can be found here: https://github.com/mzbotreprap/VORON