Well between Vista dying on my work machine, and a supplier calling to say that the swaybar for the Cressy was in i packed up early today and came home.
After i put the swaybar on the Cressy i had a bit under an hour before dinner to get some work on the Spoonter done.
So ive made a start on shifting the battery and isolator switch, and started thinking about making new rails for the seat. Thinking about it anyway.
On with the Edo spec pics:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27762-1/Image219.jpg[/IMG]
Relocated isolator switch. Used to be behind the handbrake hole on the trans tunnel, but it really wasnt a very intuitive spot to reach for, so its going in plain sight.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27765-1/Image220.jpg[/IMG]
Started installing battery box, and then realised that i dont have any plate/bar steel to put into it for a base, and so its just tek screwed in. Relocated the main fuses near there now and cleaned up some of the wiring.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27768-1/Image221.jpg[/IMG]
Bling bling waterpump underdrive pulley arrived the other day from the US. Cheaper than sourcing one locally, and relatively blingy. Hopefully it will help with the cavitation problem i was having going through the kink at 8900rpm.
Thats about it for now, hoping to get some more work done this weekend.
I got some more work done on the car this weekend. Firstly rebuilding 4As is like riding a bike, you never really forget how to do it. So i popped the head on, and started tensioning up everything, but to put the timing belt back on i had to take off the alternator belt:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27773-1/Image222.jpg[/IMG]
And then the alternator basically fell off.
Found that at some point in the past the bolt holding the custom alternator bracket had sheared off the block leaving the alternator held on by only 1 bolt at the bottom.
So in the vein of Babs’ hako thread, and Edos camerawork, i put together a little howto on removing a sheared bolt.
Firstly, find a bolt that has sheared off, like this alternator bolt, soak it with penetrene/rp7/wd40.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27776-1/Image224.jpg[/IMG]
And pop a nice little punch mark into the center of it.
Then take your drilling tool of choice, in my case a re-cased Bluepoint air drill:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27779-1/Image226.jpg[/IMG]
Internals by bluepoint, casing by supercrap.
Drill a hole down the center of the bolt, carefully. I chose a 3mm bit for this task:
[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27782-1/Image225.jpg[/img]
I blame edo for the crap photo.
Then source an appropriate torx bit (i buy them up when they are going cheap at bunnings) and hammer it into the bolt.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27785-1/Image227.jpg[/IMG]
Take one shifter with a 1/4″ socket on the end and slowly and gently wind it out:
[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27788-1/Image228.jpg[/img]
Voila, one removed bolt:
[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27791-1/Image230.jpg[/img]
So other than that, i went and picked up my 4.77 ratio diff, and new door cards for the rear. I did end up redoing the timing belt and finishing off assembly but no pics of that for now. I need to go see a bolt store to buy a whole stack of stainless capscrews to replace the mild ones which are rusting up.
I also did some work on relocating the brake bias valve incabin just infront of the handbrake hole in the trans tunnel.
Plus i got around to drilling off the brackets for the seat rails, so i can build up some custom ones, to hopefully mount this new seat a bit lower than the old one.
Which brings me to two questions (which ill probably repost in General or somewhere).
Firstly, for the distance between the trans tunnel and the valve would people use braided lines, or just run hardlines all the way?
Secondly, what gauge steel would people use for the seat rails? Im thinking 4 or 5mm thick bar. Anyone else?