Posted on

Supra Project

Dave: unsure on the Kelsey controller, and to be honest i havnt had a chance to look at it. Also isnt the Enduro on the 8th?
I probably wont be driving or crew, but probably going to be Media.

Anyway, after that slight excursus, back to trig and strut angles.
Last night i sat down with a pen and paper and a scientific calculator and made some pretty diagrams with numbers on them. I made some pretty bodgy assumptions, such as the LCA being horizontal, and when the LCA is horizontal the stock camber is 0deg, neither of which are particularly true. But on the other hand it does let me treat it all as a right angle triangle.
If anyone is interested in the maths its basically “Given strut angle (90*-AoI) and LCA length, solve for other sides”, then “Given shock length (from part A), and LCA length, solve for strut angle” then subtract strut angle from AoI to give effective camber.

Now with my bodgy assumptions i came to the rough conclusion that i would have about 0.9 deg negative camber with the MX83 suspension bits.

And then i woke up at a ridiculous time this morning, given that my wife is on an ambulance shift and had to be there by 7, and went out to the garage to test it. I basically dropped out the strut quickly, and then put the strut top onto the MX83 strut and bolted that in. Now i buggered the thread on the already stuffed steering arm at UPullIt getting it off so i had to just let it sit together to see if it worked. Onwards and upwards with the jack.
I took a measurement of the hub to guard distance on my Cressida for a
rough guide, and jacked it up to that height (350mm).

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28052-1/IMG_2789.JPG[/IMG]

Breaking out the inclinometer i measured the angle:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28055-1/IMG_2790.JPG[/IMG]

1.3deg negative camber, not bad at all for some bodgy trig. Now the 0.4deg difference im putting down to the stock camber not being 0 when the LCAs are parallel to the ground.

I then had a bit of time on my hands and went and got the spare out of the Cressida to just have a quick test fit:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28058-1/IMG_2791.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28061-1/IMG_2792.JPG[/IMG]

Looks about 1.3neg too:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28064-1/IMG_2793.JPG[/IMG]

I cant jack it up any higher, because i havnt removed anything from the other side, including the swaybar, so if i try to jack it up higher the swaybar just binds up the chassis and lifts the entire chassis off the stands. Ooops.

Thats about it for now, i might get a chance to fiddle later if i go home early from work, as the stupid workmen are drilling again and i cant hear myself think.

Posted on

Supra Project

Spent most of the weekend out at UPullIt getting bits for the Supra. But first i rolled it into its home for the next little while:

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27957-1/IMG_2757.JPG[/IMG]
Making good friends with the Sprinter now. I also hooked up a battery so i could see how the electrics were, and given that nothing went smokey i went further and hit ignition and was happy to see that pretty much everything i had expected worked. Aircon is a bit weird, but thats ok, because im ditching the automatic AC and going to a manual setup. Digi dash worked, but im not entirely sure that ill end up using it. Power windows worked, but a bit sluggish, which could be just the battery being low.

So onto the bits that i got at UPullIt:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27963-1/IMG_2760.JPG[/IMG]
Picked up an analog dash, which should be relatively compatible with what i have, although it will require rewiring completely to work. The CelicaSupra guys have a whinge and say its too hard, but with <20 wires to swap around im sure it will be fine.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27984-1/IMG_2767.JPG[/IMG]
Picked up a fuel pump bracket and the lines associated, to finish off what was missing in my fuel tank, as well as an analog level sender. Which ill need if i use the analog dash.

Onto the suspension, i picked up everything for both of my options:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27966-1/IMG_2761.JPG[/IMG]
MX83 Cressida steering arms, and RA40 tie rod end tubes.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27969-1/IMG_2762.JPG[/IMG]
GH Sigma (left) and MX83 (right) lower control arms.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27975-1/IMG_2764.JPG[/IMG]
MX83 struts, and hubs.

I also found another Cressida with a black interior, so i picked up a few things which i had missed out in my car. Adding to my big pile of black bits:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27987-1/IMG_2768.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27990-1/IMG_2769.JPG[/IMG]

Bonus boot carpet:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27999-1/IMG_2772.JPG[/IMG]

Plus there was an EF with a trans cooler hanging out the front, so that came with me too. If i stick with power steering ill end up using it as a power steering cooler:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27981-1/IMG_2766.JPG[/IMG]

Also some pretty pics of the engine which will be powering it:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27978-1/IMG_2765.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27993-1/IMG_2770.JPG[/IMG]
VVTi 2JZGE, pretty standard atm, and ill have to do a bit of cleaning up of the wiring loom and sort out what the other ecu plugs are.

Plus on the downside of the weekend was finding a touch of rust here:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27996-1/IMG_2771.JPG[/IMG]
As a bonus its in the removable cowl, so not in the body which is nice. Ill cut it out and a bit of fibreglass and things will be all good.

So onto the suspension. Currently i have a few options, but the one which appeals to me is using the MX83 struts at the front for the 5stud. However, the kingpin angle is different between the MX83 strut and the MA61 strut, with the MX83 giving positive camber (signfiicantly) if used with the MA61 lower control arms.
The MA61 LCA is 295mm eye-to-eye and the MX83 LCA is 330mm eye-to-eye. Which is all well and good on paper. However, going from the GroupA cars the Supra works best at about 4-5deg neg camber on the front (and the AE86s seem to support this with 6deg neg working really well).

I havnt figured out what the static camber will be with the MX83 strut and LCA, so that is first thing to do on the cards. If its looking to be too high, then ill have the following options as i see it:

  • Get the struts rebent to add more negative camber
  • Find longer LCAs (dont want to do this as it adds more track at the front, and given that the GroupA cars ran 50mm extra at the front i dont want to add more)
  • Find MS65 hubs and use the stock MA61 struts with the GH Sigma LCAs.

Thats about it for options, but i guess the first thing is to figure out the effective king pin angle and get cracking with some trigonometry and figure out what the camber adjustment is.

Posted on

Supra Project

I had a bit of time on my hands tonight, so i wrote out a complete spec of how the car will probably end up:

[B]Drivetrain[/B]
2JZGE VVTi
Lightweight Flywheel
HD Clutch
F-series LSD
Stock Rad, AU falcoon fans
Oil cooler

[B]Front Suspension and Brakes[/B]
MX83 Cressida struts, steering arms and hubs
R33 GTST Calipers
BA Falcon rotors
GH Sigma LCAs
RA40 tierod ends and tubes
SW20 Rear Shocks (AGX or ExcelG)
Otomoto Coilover kit, with 6kg springs
S13 cambertops
Modified S13 strut brace

[B]Rear Suspension and Brakes[/B]
MS123 hubs
Unsure on brakes, maybe R33 again
Ford Focus Rear AGX, or VB-VP Commonwhore ExcelG
Aurora rear springs 4kg/mm
Rear harness/tower bar

[B]Interior[/B]
MP3 USB Headunit
6x9s in the rear “doors”
Otomoto Steering Wheel
Celica manualised climate control
Carpet (maybe from Knox)
AC removed
Celica analog dash
Maybe an alarm

Thats about it, not an overly complex setup, but only parts from 14 different cars involved 🙂 Hope to pick up some of those parts on the weekend.

Posted on

2JZA61 Supra Project

In a probably completely vain effort to create a thread which will rival Babs’ Hako thread im going to document nigh on everything that im doing.
All in all ill probably fail.

After cleaning up the BIG pile of parts and sorting them into the shelves in the garage space which the car will occupy (probably on the weekend when i can call on some other grunt to get the car maneuvered in, i started on the rust.

Remember this rust in the spare tyre well:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27940-1/IMG_2747.JPG[/IMG]

Well Mr Rust, meet Mr Rust Converter

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27946-1/IMG_2749.JPG[/img]

In this case in a wanky bottle called RustBuster.

Simply splash some onto a rag and wipe over all the rusted surfaces, allow to dry and a little while later it looks like this:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27949-1/IMG_2750.JPG[/IMG]
No rust left.

A little application of rattlecan silver and voila:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27952-1/IMG_2751.JPG[/IMG]

Yeah, i was sick today, couldnt be bothered doing much else, over the weekend ill get the car shifted in next to the race car and start looking at suspension and maybe pulling out the dead 5ME.

Posted on

2JZA61 Supra Project

So before i hustled off to work today i spent about 15mins ripping out the interior of the car. Not particularly hard when its all unbolted and just sitting there.
The pile of bits which came out looks like this:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27898-1/IMG_2733.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27916-1/IMG_2739.JPG[/IMG]

Stripped out car like so:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27901-1/IMG_2734.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27904-1/IMG_2735.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27907-1/IMG_2736.JPG[/IMG]

All in all very damn good, really not overly concerned about it being a complete headache anymore. Only a mild one 🙂

Pretty much everything was all neatly boxed up and sitting in chinese food containers or icecream boxes, neatly labeled so that i know where they go. So now i have eleventy billion little containers with “Glovebox screws” and the like on them, all of which contain the same screws 😆
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27925-1/IMG_2742.JPG[/IMG]

Only things which i really found were something, probably oil, spilled in the passenger side:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27910-1/IMG_2737.JPG[/IMG]

A bit of surface rust in the spare tyre well, which is pretty normal.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27928-1/IMG_2743.JPG[/IMG]

And a cat or something has had its way with the roof lining:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27934-1/IMG_2745.JPG[/IMG]

Other than those things most of the interior can go back together relatively easily. Ill give the carpets a good wash, and maybe try to dye them black before they go back in, and everything else should just go back in easily. Im considering getting some dry ice to take out all the sound deadening, especially that nasty tar stuff, but im not sure if i can be bothered at this point.

Other things in the car apart from the interior are a little worse:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27919-1/IMG_2740.JPG[/IMG]
Engine is completely seized, even the breaker bar with a 3m exhaust tube extension couldnt budge it. Ohwell, time to find a new one for a case or something.
Its also missing a tailshaft, which i should be able to get at a wrecker or something, and i couldnt find the locknut key in any of the little boxes, which was a big bummer. Not sure if i can get one from a tyre shop or if i am going to have to weld a normal nut to each of the locknuts and go from there…
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27922-1/IMG_2741.JPG[/IMG]
Not overly keen on welding as they are quite nice rims 🙂

On the upside of it all the fuel tank is already out:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27931-1/IMG_2744.JPG[/IMG]
Which means i wont skimp on putting a decent fuel pump in it now 🙂

Edit: oh yeah, i almost forgot. I found that there is absolutely no engine number stamped anywhere on the body, which makes re-registering it a lot easier with another engine.

Interestingly as well it was also silver at some point, the red is exterior only.

Posted on

2JZA61 Supra Project

After much umming and aaahing [SIZE=”1″]about 5minutes really[/SIZE] i snapped up a Supra in Wangaratta for use as a project daily/weekend thrasher/khana/other car, similar to what Clive has his R32 for, but for the things i cant be bothered or cant take out the race car for.

Thanks to some great kindness on the part of morerevsm3 on PF, who offered to transport it over from Wangaratta to Adelaide for free, it arrived today, and i finally got to see what sort of a basket case my $500 got me.

Oh and the hillarity of getting into the drivers seat to back it off the trailer and suddenly facing the roof was all good. Oh and going to steer and finding out that the steering wheel wasnt bolted on, we got it into the driveway. After chatting all the afternoon (much to the consternation of my wife) i pushed it into the carport, and had a quick squiz.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27879-1/IMG_2727.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27889-1/IMG_2730.JPG[/IMG]
Importantly no rust in the tailgate, they are always prone for rusting there. No idea how this one survived without it.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27892-1/IMG_2731.JPG[/IMG]
Interior in the car, well sort of. All in boxes. Interestingly enough this car still has an uncracked dash and good door trims… IN BLACK. Which is about as rare as hens teeth.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27895-1/IMG_2732.JPG[/IMG]
I wonder why it doesnt run, thats high on the agenda.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27886-1/IMG_2729.JPG[/IMG]
Oh and the Simmons, which will be going on the race car soon.

All in all its not bad for the money i paid, need to assemble the interior, and refit the fuel tank (since its sitting in the boot), but im not going to complain much at all, especially as most local people wanted $3k for stuff with rust in it.
The “big” problem is the engine, as i cant just slap the 2JZ in it and take it anywhere near regency. Instead what ill have to do is put a 5ME back into it, and then get it registered before putting the 2JZ into it. All a good excuse to sort out the suspension and other bits.

List of things to do are:[LIST=1]
[]Refit interior of supra []Rebuild engine
[]Pass regency []Otomoto coilover kit for the front
[]R33/BA brake upgrade []VP rear shocks
[]SW20 front shocks []6kg front and 4kg rear springs
[]Sort suspension []2JZ VVTi
[/LIST]

I have a 2JZGE VVTi waiting in the wings for it when i finally get it sorted. Should be a good ride.

Posted on

Garage Takai IPRA AE86

So i rearranged my day and came home a bit early this afternoon and got stuck into the rails.
Here is what i have come up with sofar:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27833-1/IMG_2690.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27842-1/IMG_2693.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27845-1/IMG_2694.JPG[/IMG]
Not bad for about an hours work if i say so myself.

Pretty much level:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27854-1/IMG_2697.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27857-1/IMG_2698.JPG[/IMG]
And that little unevenness can be adjusted out with the slotting on the sides of the rails.

And for GTSBoy, this is why im not going to bother cutting out the original crossbeam:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27848-1/IMG_2695.JPG[/IMG]
There is buggerall clearance under the floorpan anyway, and i need to have the seat raked back slightly to keep my knees up otherwise i have a hell of a time using the clutch as my knee locks up.

I havnt welded it in yet, as i need to remove all the fuel lines from the trans tunnel (not taking that risk) and remove anything which might be damaged by the welding sparks, cover windows etc etc.
Im not sure whether ill relieve all the sides by 3mm to fit some plate in there, im sorely tempted to, but the front will be reinforced to the crossbeam, and the outboard side of the rear is 4mm thick anyway.

While i was mucking around the other night in the garage i mocked up where the brake bias adjuster will sit:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27839-1/IMG_2692.JPG[/IMG]

Ill mount it after i have finished welding in the rails.

I think i have a bit more room than you there, im a pretty small guy.

Just finished welding it all up:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27869-1/IMG_2718.JPG[/IMG]

I was a touch worried about penetration, but a quick check revealed that i need not be worried:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27872-1/IMG_2725.JPG[/IMG]

I plated the front outer weld, but didnt bother plating the rest. Reason being that i was welding to the existing seatbelt mount points, which are already heavily plated as so:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27875-1/IMG_2724.JPG[/IMG]
(from the underside).

I initially tacked it in and then bolted in the seat to measure. I now have about 2-3″ of room between my head and the rollcage with my helmet on.

Posted on

Garage Takai IPRA AE86

Ok, as i said before, too many Edo spec photos in this thread. Hence here are some clear ones to even out the ratio.

Fully assembled engine:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27794-1/IMG_2662.JPG[/IMG]
With gratuitious toyota flag:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27797-1/IMG_2663.JPG[/IMG]

Remounted kill switch:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27803-1/IMG_2665.JPG[/img]

Where the brake bias valve will go:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27802-2/IMG_2664.JPG[/IMG]

And finally some of the floorpan around the seat area:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27806-1/IMG_2666.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27809-1/IMG_2667.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27812-1/IMG_2668.JPG[/IMG]
Including the cutoff bracketry.
Now looking at it again, rationally, i think ill end up mounting the sidemounts on the left side (tunnel side) straight to the floor, with some reinforcement, but also see if i can get the “nose” of the seat up over the crossbar in the floor, because that keeps my knees in the best location. I think ill end up welding SHS to the floor on the right (outboard) side though, so im not sure how that will go.

I went out and jigged everything up and made a hell of a lot of measurements tonight.
First i got the seat in the right place:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27815-1/IMG_2669.JPG[/IMG]
Right there its comfortable, i can reach the pedals, it fits (snug between cage and trans tunnel) and i dont think ill have issues with my knee being dicky at that angle (i had serious issues in our FormulaSAE car where my knee was at about 10* bent).

Then i got out my little friend/new toy:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27818-1/IMG_2679.JPG[/img]

Basically a digital inclinometer, or spirit level. But it does bucket loads of stuff and you can set it to a base reference other than horizontal (gravity) etc.

Checked on the block of wood ontop of the seat:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27821-1/IMG_2682.JPG[/IMG]
0.1deg, good enough, if that tiny angle is much of an issue i can adjust it out with the seat in place.

Got out the trusty paint pen, and made stacks of markings:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27824-1/IMG_2671.JPG[/img]

And now im left with this:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27827-1/IMG_2688.JPG[/IMG]
The horizontal mark at the top is the angle of the seat rails (as they arnt perfectly square, almost but not quite), the vertical tick marks are where the holes in the rails are. In this configuration the rails are butting up hard against the cross brace, so i cant really go any further forward, and i cant go further back due to the cage. Just perfect.
The front mark with the F above it is the frontmost of the front 3 holes, 25mm from the brace. Each of the holes in the rail is 20mm apart.
At the back i have the 2 rearward most holes marked out of which im thinking ill use the rearmost as the front one will be VERY tight on the stock mount. Plus im considering keeping the stock mounts so i can mount a stock seat in for tuners to use (the seat is custom for me, and quite narrow).

Now the real thing i have to decide is whether to mount rails across the car or down the length of the car. I could do a combination of the two, but its not going to be pretty. At the front i could do just tabs off the brace, but im not convinced of the strength of that, so it will be either all the way across or all the way down.
Ideas?

Posted on

Garage Takai IPRA AE86

Well between Vista dying on my work machine, and a supplier calling to say that the swaybar for the Cressy was in i packed up early today and came home.
After i put the swaybar on the Cressy i had a bit under an hour before dinner to get some work on the Spoonter done.

So ive made a start on shifting the battery and isolator switch, and started thinking about making new rails for the seat. Thinking about it anyway.

On with the Edo spec pics:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27762-1/Image219.jpg[/IMG]
Relocated isolator switch. Used to be behind the handbrake hole on the trans tunnel, but it really wasnt a very intuitive spot to reach for, so its going in plain sight.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27765-1/Image220.jpg[/IMG]
Started installing battery box, and then realised that i dont have any plate/bar steel to put into it for a base, and so its just tek screwed in. Relocated the main fuses near there now and cleaned up some of the wiring.

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27768-1/Image221.jpg[/IMG]
Bling bling waterpump underdrive pulley arrived the other day from the US. Cheaper than sourcing one locally, and relatively blingy. Hopefully it will help with the cavitation problem i was having going through the kink at 8900rpm.

Thats about it for now, hoping to get some more work done this weekend.

I got some more work done on the car this weekend. Firstly rebuilding 4As is like riding a bike, you never really forget how to do it. So i popped the head on, and started tensioning up everything, but to put the timing belt back on i had to take off the alternator belt:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27773-1/Image222.jpg[/IMG]
And then the alternator basically fell off.

Found that at some point in the past the bolt holding the custom alternator bracket had sheared off the block leaving the alternator held on by only 1 bolt at the bottom.

So in the vein of Babs’ hako thread, and Edos camerawork, i put together a little howto on removing a sheared bolt.

Firstly, find a bolt that has sheared off, like this alternator bolt, soak it with penetrene/rp7/wd40.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27776-1/Image224.jpg[/IMG]
And pop a nice little punch mark into the center of it.

Then take your drilling tool of choice, in my case a re-cased Bluepoint air drill:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27779-1/Image226.jpg[/IMG]
Internals by bluepoint, casing by supercrap.

Drill a hole down the center of the bolt, carefully. I chose a 3mm bit for this task:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27782-1/Image225.jpg[/img]

I blame edo for the crap photo.

Then source an appropriate torx bit (i buy them up when they are going cheap at bunnings) and hammer it into the bolt.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27785-1/Image227.jpg[/IMG]

Take one shifter with a 1/4″ socket on the end and slowly and gently wind it out:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27788-1/Image228.jpg[/img]

Voila, one removed bolt:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27791-1/Image230.jpg[/img]

So other than that, i went and picked up my 4.77 ratio diff, and new door cards for the rear. I did end up redoing the timing belt and finishing off assembly but no pics of that for now. I need to go see a bolt store to buy a whole stack of stainless capscrews to replace the mild ones which are rusting up.

I also did some work on relocating the brake bias valve incabin just infront of the handbrake hole in the trans tunnel.

Plus i got around to drilling off the brackets for the seat rails, so i can build up some custom ones, to hopefully mount this new seat a bit lower than the old one.

Which brings me to two questions (which ill probably repost in General or somewhere).
Firstly, for the distance between the trans tunnel and the valve would people use braided lines, or just run hardlines all the way?
Secondly, what gauge steel would people use for the seat rails? Im thinking 4 or 5mm thick bar. Anyone else?

Posted on

Garage Takai IPRA AE86

From when i got it in there it was on like donkey kong.

Built a new plenum, after it looked like the old one wasnt going to fit:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/4983-1/IMG_0071_001.jpg[/IMG]

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5494-1/IMG_0014_002.JPG[/img]

[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5485-1/IMG_0011_002.JPG[/IMG]

New fueling system:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5033-1/DSC00181.jpg[/img]

Shimless bucket setup:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5125-1/DSC00245.JPG[/img]

Put the interior back together and finished off the wiring (yes, all the red wires are fused +B feeds)
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5103-1/IMG_0067_002.jpg[/IMG]

Got it all back together and sent it off to be caged:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5457-2/IMG_0001_004.JPG[/img]

Cage:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5461-1/IMG_0003_006.JPG[/IMG]

Came back and got an exhaust:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6087-2/DSC00280.jpg[/IMG]

Went off to be tuned, blew up an ignitor:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6135-2/IMG_0002_006.JPG[/img]

Plus the coil over plug setup was excessively hard to get readings for timing, so i cracked it and redid the ignition system:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6157-1/IMG_0015_003.JPG[/IMG]

From there on it was back to my house to finish off the little things for scrutineering:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6168-2/IMG_0019_003.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6177-2/IMG_0021_003.JPG[/IMG]

Tailshaft loops:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6189-2/IMG_0025_002.JPG[/IMG]

Killswitch:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6183-2/IMG_0023_003.JPG[/IMG]

Fuel firewall:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6180-2/IMG_0022_004.JPG[/IMG]

Scrutineering happened, and then it was off to my first meet:
Night before:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6214-1/IMG_0033.JPG[/IMG]

Out there:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6220-1/IMG_0035.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6226-1/IMG_0037.JPG[/IMG]

Thats not supposed to happen:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6243-2/IMG_0042.JPG[/IMG]

Turns out that the booster diaphragm had busted during the fire, so i had buggerall front brakes and all rears. Lead to spinning a hell of a lot. So i only just qualified, and had race 1 then packed up and went home. Good learning experience.

Out came the booster and boosted MC, and in went of all things an unboosted 240K master:
Mounting plate:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6345-2/IMG_0003_007.JPG[/IMG]
Mocked up:
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6368-2/IMG_0003_008.JPG[/IMG]
Setting pushrod throw:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6392-2/IMG_0014_004.JPG[/img]

All back together:

[img]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6405-2/IMG_0023_004.JPG[/img]

The season that year had a bit of a break between August and November, so i took it out to a couple of practice days. At one of them my one of my bonnet pins snapped and the other came loose and the bonnet popped up at 140km/h into Turn1. Cracked the windscreen, and smashed the sunroof. Sunroof wasnt the end of the world, as i wanted to replace it anyway:

All done.
[IMG]http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/7086-2/IMG_0186.JPG[/IMG]

I then did the last two events of the year, including the twilight meet. At the twilight meet i was unlucky enough to be pulling in at the end of Qualifying only to have the car in front run out of fuel in the pit lane entrance. I couldnt go anywhere, and couldnt go back out onto track, the marshalls wouldnt let me turn off the car (probably for fear of it not staritng again) so i had to sit there idling with no thermofan. Hit 110* before i got moving again, and so i had to do a few laps of the pits at <20km/h to try and get the temps down before parking it.
Surely enough, i had blown the head gasket. I managed to do R1 and R2 before putting it back on the trailer and calling it a day. Best times out there to date in that car too, 1:27.2 with a BHG.

When i got it home i parked the car, and ended up buying a house under a week after that event. From there on until now its been pretty busy getting the house sorted, and getting married. However, now im ready to get back into it. Parts are coming together, and work is beginning….

Stay tuned…